Lava Lake - Summer 2009

A group of us headed out for a relatively short but beautiful summer hike, destination Lava Lake. The trail is 6 miles round trip and gains about 1,600 ft. It's pretty popular on a summer day so you definitely won't have it to yourself, but there's plenty of room to spread out and explore.

Lava Lake

Lochsa River Adventure

For the last weekend in May we planned a 3-day camping, hiking, hotspringing, and rafting extravaganza. We left early from Bozeman and made the scenic drive out to Highway 12 where we set up camp along the rushing waters of the Lochsa. We found a nice campground between Weir and Jerry Johnson Hotsprings which we had basically to ourselves. We explored around a little, made dinner, and headed to the Weir hotsprings. It was a short walk in along a rushing creek to a nice set of springs with a few campsites along the way. We shared the spring with one other group and soaked until it began getting dark.

The next day we headed over to the DeVoto Memorial Cedar Grove where we checked out the giant trees. Then it was across the river to the Jerry Johnson falls which we really impressive at the high water level. After that we looped down to the hotsprings for some more soaking. The lower springs (the ones closest to the river) were completely submerged, but the upper springs were nice.

Now that's a big cedar!

We found this super creepy hand stuck in one of the trees

Crossing the Lochsa

The Falls

Jerry Johnson Hotsprings

Reflection in the springs

Then the next morning it was up early for our adventure down the raging Lochsa. The river was running nearly at peak and created an exciting ride. Lochsa Falls was especially roaring. Luckily our group managed to stay in the raft. Can't say the same about the group before us. They had a wave surge on them and the entire raft flipped. Everyone was fine though. It was a great weekend.

How to raft the Lochsa

How not to raft the Lochsa

Humbug Spires - spring 2009

The Humbug Spires is a wilderness area filled with large granite spires off of highway 15. It doesn't hold snow like many parts of Montana making it a great spring destination. With a warm sunny day predicted, Derrick and I decided to go check it out.

We entered via the Moose Creek Trailhead. It's about 6 miles round trip to get into the main spire area. There's plenty of places to just explore. We spent several hours just climbing our way up the different rock slabs enjoying the area.

Derrick up on one of the spires

One of the larger granite spires

Spanish Creek Snowshoe

The Spanish Peaks are a sub range of the Madison Range in Southwest Montana. One of the main entrances to the Spanish Peaks is the Spanish Creek trail head accessed by driving on a public road through Ted Turners ranch. There is a large campground and a forest service cabin at the trail head making this is a very popular area in the summer, but in the winter it's pretty quiet. We decided to take advantage of this and plan a little winter getaway. Luckily the cabin doesn't get too many rentals in the winter and we were able to take our pick of weekends. You can drive the road to the trail head until about 4 miles before the cabin. Then it is very easy to follow the rest of the snow covered road to the cabin and other trails.

This was going to be Derricks first backpacking/snowshoeing trip so an easy four miles was about all we were looking for. The nice thing about the cabin is that it has beds and a wood fired stove so we were able to pack pretty light. The road climbs slightly, but at a gradual grade. The weekend we chose turned out to be on the warm side which was nice, but also caused the snow to become a bit slushy. It was fine when we started out in the morning, but as the day warmed up we found ourselves hiking through a slushy mess. Luckily the snow on the road wasn't too deep so we were able to manage.

Breaking Trail

The hike in was nice. It is very open giving you beautiful views of the mountains looming in the distance. We only saw a couple of ski tracks, no people. On the way in and as we neared the camping area we were breaking fresh trail. It was amazingly quiet. The cabin was nice. It stayed pretty warm once we got the stove going. It was a real treat to be able to cook a meal with real dishes and not on a camping stove. Many people had left behind little additions (candles, cards, whiskey) that made the cabin very homey.

Looking out at the Spanish Peaks

Approaching Spanish Creek

The one downfall of the night was discovering my newer shoes had given me some nickle sized blisters on the back of my heels. Unfortunately my feet had gotten wet and cold in the slush and I hadn't realized how bad it was getting until I stopped. I did my best to bandage my wounds the next morning, but needless to say the hike out was slow going. Every step seemed to hurt my now raw sores. Eventually the pain subsided but we took almost twice as long going back to the car as we did coming in. Minus the blisters, it was a nice weekend. Really good to get out after such a long cold winter.

Our little home for the night

To get to the cabin: Head south on Highway 191 from Bozeman. Turn right on the Spanish Creek Rd (about 13 miles after Four Corners). Take the gravel road for about 5.5 miles. At the end of the gravel you hit a paved road going south. This is where the snow usually begins.

Map of the Hike

A Frozen Grotto Falls

Grotto falls is the first of a series of waterfalls along the Hyalite Mountain trail. They're quite popular in the summer, but are possibly more spectacular in the winter. Only 2.5 miles round trip, this is an easy snowshoe. When winter temperatures are cold enough the falls freeze creating a cove like affect. You can cross the creek on a large downed tree and explore the frozen grotto.

Behind the ice

Hanging out in the grotto

Grotto and Palisade Falls

The Rocky Mountains are full of dramatic waterfalls, and I have enjoyed spending my summer exploring many of these. Hands down the two most popular waterfalls in the Bozeman area are Grotto and Palisade Falls both located in the Hyalite Canyon of the Gallatin National Forest.

The Gallatin National Forest is a 1.8 million acre section of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and encompasses 6 mountain ranges. Hyalite Canyon is a 34,000 acre drainage area containing a large reservoir created in the 1940s. It sits about 30 minutes south of Bozeman, MT making it an extremely popular area for outdoor recreation. This area also contains some of the best ice climbing in the country.

Hyalite Reservoir as seen from the top of Palisade Falls

Grotto Falls is a waterfall along Hyalite Creek. It is a little over a mile from the trailhead on a very well established trail. The trail crosses the creek at Grotto Falls and continues to Hyalite Lake following the creek and passing about 10 more falls along the way.

Grotto Falls

Palisade Falls is a skinny waterfall dropping 80ft down a large rock wall. It is also a little over a mile from the trailhead on a mostly paved trail. Both of these trails claim to be handicap accessible. I have seen one person in wheelchair making the journey, however it looked to be a pretty intense trip. The trail basically ends at the falls, but a makeshift trail can be found along the right that will take you to the top of the falls. Be prepared to scramble. There were several climbing anchors set at the top of the falls, however, they looked a little sketchy and like they had seen some winters. My advice would be to avoid those and set your own if you're planning on climbing.

Palisade Falls

The hikes to these falls are far from extreme and you wont get the isolated feel of the backcountry, but they do make for a nice little stroll when you're needing a little time in one of nature's many playgrounds.

Union Falls - Yellowstone N.P.

Several people recommended this weekend backpacking trip in Southwestern Yellowstone and I'm sure glad I took their advice. Union Falls is the second highest waterfall in the park at 265 ft. It is formed by the joining of two rivers and it is quite impressive. There are two back country campsites about a mile or so away from the falls and about 7 miles from the trail head making this trek perfect for a weekend getaway or a very ambitious day hike. Permits for camping must be attained through the Yellowstone back country offices. They are free of charge unless you want to reserve your spot more than 48 hrs in advance. Reservations then cost $20. The hike is in the Bechler area of the park and should be done in mid-July or later. The area is the wettest section of the park and you will have to ford a river at the beginning of the hike. When I went the second weekend in August the water was just bellow my knee at the deepest point, so very doable. The area does attract a lot of mosquitoes so bug spray is a must. Of course this is also grizzly country so make sure you take the proper precautions. There are frames for bear bagging already established at the camp sites.

The river that we forded

The trail head is located at the Grassy Lakes Reservoir just South of the park. To get there head to the Flagg Ranch Resort on 287 just south of Yellowstone and north of the Grand Tetons. From the resort you take the Grassy Lakes Rd west for about 10 miles. This is a dirt road, but under normal conditions should not require 4WD. You'll come across the reservoir and see a steep road on your right that leads to the base of the spill way. Park here and look for the sign marking trail. After a few minutes of hiking you will see the sign for the park boundary welcoming you into Yellowstone.

The hike itself is relatively flat and pretty well marked. There are a few trail junctions but they're all pretty straight forward. After the first river crossing there are a few creeks to get across, but we were able to cross on fallen logs or rocks each time. The trail is shaded in many sections and very pleasant. There is a noticeable descent down to the riverbed near the camp sites which can you leave you feeling a little bit winded on the trip back to your car. The first site you come across is labeled 9U4. This is where our group spent the night. There is an established fire ring and a pit toilet (read: box covering a hole in the ground). The campsite is right along the river and very nice. Just past that campsite you will cross a little foot bridge and see the other Union Falls site 9U5. From here you are about a mile from the actual falls. I'd recommend setting up camp or at least dropping your pack before hiking to the falls.

Our campsite 9U4

On the way to the falls you will pass a patrol cabin and horse hitching post. The trail forks at this hitching post with the right fork taking you to the falls. The trail ends at ridge offering you a spectacular view and great photo opportunity. At the lookout you'll also be greeted by a refreshing mist off the falls. There's a makeshift trail that leads down to the river below the falls, but be careful because it is very wet, slippery and steep. After you enjoy the falls make sure to check out the other little gem of this hike...the swimming hole.

The amazing swimming hole

Back at the horse hitching post the other fork of the trail leads to another river with a small set of falls. This river is geothermically warmed and is about temperature of a swimming pool. The river gets surprisingly deep just below the falls and is perfect for a swim. The current is stronger than it looks just below the falls so if your not a good swimmer be careful in this area. You can also climb the rocks around the pool and take a flying leap in. We spent several hours enjoying this spot. You definitely don't want to miss it!

All in all it makes for a great weekend adventure. As always in the back country make sure you familiarize yourself with the area. Yellowstone is a wild place and conditions can change quickly. Always check with a ranger on the current conditions of an area before entering the back country. Although the trail is marked it is always a good idea to bring a topo map and compass. Help preserve this wilderness by practicing good stewardship and following the Leave No Trace principles. Now go enjoy one of nature's great playgrounds!